tickover

Roof, walls & outside

Mice, rats and wasps: what actually works

The most effective pest control tool in Britain is a pencil. If a gap is wide enough to slide one in, a mouse can follow it, and every autumn a few million try. Sealing the building beats trapping, poisoning and fumigating, every time, for every pest in this article.

By the Tickover team · Published 15 May 2026 · 4 min read

Exclusion first, always

Pest control sells removal, but removal without exclusion is a subscription. The animals you evict are replaced by relatives using the same doorway. So the first move for mice and rats is not a trap; it is a slow walk around the outside of the house at knee height, pencil in hand, finding every gap the building has grown. The same envelope that keeps rain out keeps wildlife out, which is why this walk pairs naturally with the checks in the outside survival guide.

The proofing walk-round

  • Gaps where pipes and cables enter walls (the classic)
  • Airbricks: present, intact, never blocked or painted over
  • Under doors: daylight showing means a brush strip is due
  • Around the garage door seal and any timber rot at its base
  • Where decking, sheds or the fence line meet the house wall
  • Drain covers seated, no broken or uncapped pipes
  • Vegetation touching walls (a ladder for everything with legs)
  • Eaves and soffit gaps, favourite wasp and bird doorways
  • Bird feeder spillage and open compost, the buffet lights

Seal small holes with wire wool packed tight and finished with sealant; rodents gnaw through filler alone but not through steel. Mind the exceptions: airbricks are ventilation and must breathe (proof them with fine mesh, never blockwork), and anything that might house bats gets checked before sealing, because bats and their roosts are legally protected.

First moves by pest
PestFirst moveCall a professional when
MiceSeal gaps, snap traps where droppings areNumbers keep rising after 2 weeks
RatsCheck drains and food sources firstAlmost always; rats mean a pro
WaspsWatch the flight path, find the nestNest is full size, high or indoors
BeesNothing. They are not pestsNever for killing; ask a beekeeper

Mice, rats and the drain question

Mice want warmth and crumbs: sealed food containers, swept floors and a fortnight of snap traps along walls (droppings mark the motorways) usually ends a small invasion. Rats are a different tier. A rat indoors very often means a broken drain, an uncapped pipe or a gap in the drainage run, because that is their transport network; before paying for bait, have the outside drains checked. Poison is the last resort, not the first: it kills slowly, it reaches pets and owls further up the food chain, and a poisoned rodent expiring under your floorboards is a smell with a six-week career.

Professional visits, as a guide

Wasp nest treatment

Rodent treatment course

Usually 2–3 visits plus proofing advice

Derived from typical call-out and visit rates; some councils run cheaper pest services.

Wasps, and the bees exception

A wasp nest in April is the size of a golf ball with one queen aboard; by August it can hold thousands and the workforce defends it with enthusiasm. Early, small and reachable without a ladder is the only window where a shop treatment is even arguable, and never for anyone with a sting allergy nearby. A full-size nest, anything in a loft, wall cavity or high eaves, is professional work with proper kit, full stop. Wasps do not reuse old nests, so a dead autumn nest can be left to become a curiosity.

Bees get the opposite treatment. Honeybee swarms are usually collected free by a local beekeeping association, bumblebee nests retire by themselves at the end of summer, and no bee should ever meet an insecticide. If a colony is somewhere structural (a chimney, a cavity), specialist relocation exists; killing them is both a waste and, with honey left in a wall, the start of a stickier problem.

The pest year

  • Mice move in: proof before it cools
  • New wasp nests, still golf-ball size
  • Honeybee swarms: call a beekeeper
  • Rat pressure peaks; watch the drains

The rhythm matters more than the heroics: proof in early autumn before mice commute indoors, glance at eaves in late spring while nests are still small, and fold the walk-round into the autumn checklist so it happens without willpower. A maintenance calendar that remembers for you is the difference between a sealed house and a surprised one.

Scratching, droppings or a suspicious hum?

Describe what you have seen and heard in the Tickover app and Self-Diagnose will point to the likely lodger, how urgent it is, and whether proofing or a professional comes first.

Start a self-diagnosis

Quick answers

How small a gap can a mouse get through?

About the width of a pencil, roughly 6–7mm, which is why proofing surprises people. Walk the outside of the house at low level and seal every gap that passes the pencil test, packing wire wool in first and finishing with sealant. Rodents gnaw through filler and foam on their own, but not through packed steel.

Should I use rat poison?

As a last resort, and ideally in a professional’s hands. Poison kills slowly, poses real risks to pets, children and owls, and rodents that die inside wall voids or under floors announce it for weeks. Rats indoors usually point to a drain defect or a food source, and fixing those removes the colony in a way bait never will.

Can I remove a wasp nest myself?

Only in the narrow early window: a nest the size of a golf ball, low, reachable without a ladder, and nobody allergic in the house. Anything bigger, higher or inside the structure is professional territory, because a mature nest can hold thousands of defenders and treating one at height is dangerous work with no second chances. Wasps never reuse old nests.

What should I do about bees?

Leave them alone and make a phone call. Honeybee swarms are collected, usually free, by local beekeeping association volunteers, and bumblebee nests die off naturally at the end of the season. Never spray bees: they are vital pollinators, and a poisoned colony inside a wall leaves honey and brood that attract worse problems later.

This guide is general information for UK homes, not advice about your specific property. Anything involving gas must be done by a Gas Safe registered engineer, and notifiable electrical work by a qualified electrician. If you smell gas, call the National Gas Emergency line on 0800 111 999. If you’re ever unsure, stop and get a professional in — that’s exactly what Tickover is for.