Heating & hot water
No hot water from your combi? Work through this
A combi makes hot water the moment a tap opens, so when it stops, the suspect list is short and specific. Ten minutes of checks will either restore the shower or hand the engineer a head start, and either way you come out ahead.
By the Tickover team · Published 25 May 2026 · 4 min read
How urgent is this?
Sort it this week, ideally today
No hot water is disruptive rather than dangerous, but cold showers have a way of escalating the household mood. The checks below take ten minutes and solve a fair share of cases outright.
How a combi decides to make hot water
Open a hot tap and a little turbine called the flow sensor notices water moving. It tells the board to fire the burner and swing the diverter valve, which switches the boiler’s attention from the radiators to a plate heat exchanger that heats mains water on its way to your tap. Heating and hot water share one machine but travel different paths through it.
Each part fails with its own signature. A stuck diverter valve gives you heating but cold taps, or hot taps but cold radiators. A lazy flow sensor gives hot water that comes and goes, or only arrives with the tap fully open. A scaled plate heat exchanger, the classic in hard-water areas, gives water that is warm rather than hot and cools as it runs.
Narrow it down
The tree assumes the basics: boiler switched on, the clock or smart control not quietly set to off, and nobody mid-shower elsewhere. A combi serves one hot outlet well; two at once splits the flow, and the temperature goes with it.
The ten-minute pre-call checks
Engineers charge fairly for diagnosis, which makes free information valuable. Everything below happens outside the casing, takes a couple of minutes, and rules out the causes that would make a call-out embarrassing.
Five checks before you phone anyone
Try more than one hot tap, opened fully
Combis need a decent flow to wake up, and one furred-up tap or clogged aerator can impersonate a boiler fault. If a single tap fails while another runs hot, the boiler is innocent.
Read the display
A code narrows everything: decode it before assuming the worst, and photograph it before it clears.
Check the pressure gauge
Below 1 bar, many boilers refuse all duties. Top it back up to about 1.2 and try the tap again.
Confirm gas is reaching the house
If the hob will not light either, the problem is supply rather than boiler. Check the meter, and any prepayment credit.
Reset once and listen
One reset is fair. If the lockout returns, stop and book, quoting the code and everything you found.
Warm, then cold, then warm again
Hard water kills more plate heat exchangers than old age does. Scale builds on the hot side, the transfer surface shrinks, and the boiler overshoots then backs off, producing that maddening warm-cool-warm cycle at the tap. An engineer can descale or replace the plate; asking them about a scale reducer at the same time buys the new one a longer life.
What the engineer will do
Diverter valves, flow sensors and plate heat exchangers all live inside the casing, so testing and replacing them is engineer work by law and by sense. The consolation: these are among the most routine combi repairs there are, and most land in the common-repair band below rather than anywhere frightening.
If it turns out to be a visit
Diagnostic visit
Common repair (with parts)
Typical UK ranges, mid-2026, as a guide only. Your home, your area and the job itself all move the number — always compare real quotes.
Intermittent faults deserve their own note when you book: hot at low flow but not high, fine in the evening but cold at breakfast. Patterns like these point at specific parts, so describe them. If the shower is the only unhappy outlet, the shower guide separates boiler faults from mixer and head problems first.
If your home heats water in a cylinder instead, the suspects live outside the boiler entirely: see hot water cylinder problems. And for the full map of boiler misbehaviour, from pressure to noises to lockouts, keep the complete boiler guide to hand.
Still cold at the tap?
Tell Self-Diagnose what you found: which taps, what code, what the gauge says. It rates the urgency, names the likely culprit and lines up a vetted Gas Safe registered engineer if the fix needs one.
Quick answers
Why do I have heating but no hot water?
On a combi that is the diverter valve’s signature: the component that switches the boiler between radiators and taps has stuck on the heating side. It lives inside the casing, so this is a job for a Gas Safe registered engineer, and it typically lands in the £150 to £400 common-repair range with parts.
Why does my hot water go cold after a few seconds?
Brief heat that fades usually means the flow sensor is under-reading or the plate heat exchanger is scaled, especially in hard-water areas. The boiler fires, mismeasures, and modulates away. Note exactly when it happens, low flow or high, morning or evening, and give the engineer the pattern.
Can I fix a diverter valve or flow sensor myself?
No. Both live inside the boiler casing, and everything in there is legally and sensibly reserved for a Gas Safe registered engineer. What you can usefully do is everything outside it: check taps, pressure, error codes and the gas supply, then hand over a precise description instead of a mystery.
Why is my combi’s hot water cooler in winter?
Because the mains water arriving at the boiler is much colder, and a combi adds a fixed amount of heat as water passes through. Same heat, colder start, cooler finish. Slowing the tap or shower flow gives the water longer in the heat exchanger and usually restores the temperature. It is physics, not a fault.
This guide is general information for UK homes, not advice about your specific property. Anything involving gas must be done by a Gas Safe registered engineer, and notifiable electrical work by a qualified electrician. If you smell gas, call the National Gas Emergency line on 0800 111 999. If you’re ever unsure, stop and get a professional in — that’s exactly what Tickover is for.
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