Heating & hot water
Thermostat settings that actually save money
No lectures about jumpers here. Three controls decide most of what your heating costs: the room thermostat, the radiator valves, and one dial on the front of the boiler that most households have never touched. Set all three well and the same warm house costs less to run.
By the Tickover team · Published 8 July 2026 · 5 min read
The room thermostat: one number, left alone
Most homes settle somewhere between 18 and 21°C. Within that band, comfort is personal; below it, health starts to argue. What matters financially is the increments: each degree lower saves up to about 10% of the heating bill, so drifting from 21 to 20 is a real saving, while 23 as a default is an expensive habit.
The thermostat is a target, not an accelerator. Setting 28 does not heat the room faster; the boiler works at the same pace, cruises past your actual comfort point, and bills you for the overshoot. Pick the number, leave it, and let the timer do the switching.
Timers beat the leave-it-on-low-all-day theory in most housing. Heating empty hours costs more than reheating from a setback in all but the best-insulated homes, so schedule warmth for when someone is there, with a cooler setback (around 15 or 16°C) overnight.
1°C
lower can trim heating costs by up to 10%
£70–£100
a year from a combi flow-temp turn-down
18–21°C
where most UK homes are comfortable
TRVs: heat rooms, not the house
A TRV (thermostatic radiator valve) senses air temperature and throttles its own radiator, which lets every room run its own climate. The numbers map roughly onto temperatures: 3 is about 20°C, and each step either way moves things a few degrees. They are cheap to add where missing, and they earn points toward a better EPC rating too.
| Room | TRV setting | Roughly |
|---|---|---|
| Living room | 3–4 | 20°C or so |
| Bedrooms | 2–3 | 16–18°C |
| Kitchen | 2 | cooking tops it up |
| Bathroom | 3–4 | warm towels |
| Spare room | 1–2 | cool, not damp-cold |
| Room with the wall stat | Leave it open | the stat is in charge |
That last row is the one everyone gets wrong. The radiator sharing a room with the wall thermostat should run unthrottled, because if a TRV shuts it down early the wall stat never reaches target and keeps the boiler firing for the whole house.
The free win: turn the flow temperature down
Condensing boilers only earn their name when the water returning to them is cool enough to condense the flue gases, roughly below 55°C. Many leave the factory set to flow at 70 or 80°C, hot enough to spend much of their life out of condensing mode. On a combi with radiators, dropping the flow temperature to 60 or 65 keeps the boiler condensing, and the saving is real: around £70 to £100 a year as a guide.
Turn it down in four steps
Find the heating temperature control
The dial or menu entry with a radiator symbol, on the front panel. Front-panel controls are yours; anything inside the casing is for a Gas Safe registered engineer.
Note the current setting
So you can retreat if the household disagrees with the experiment.
Set 60–65°C for radiators
Rooms warm a little more slowly but reach the same temperature. Comfort should not change.
Review after a cold week
If the house cannot reach temperature on a freezing day, nudge back up in small steps until it can.
Two caveats. This is combi advice: if your hot water lives in a cylinder, the stored water must stay at 60°C or above, and the cylinder guide explains which dial controls what. And heat pump homes already run low flow temperatures by design, so leave those settings to the installer.
Smart thermostats, assessed calmly
A smart thermostat saves money in exactly one way: by changing behaviour. Schedules that match your actual life, geofencing for erratic households, and enough visibility to nudge the target down a degree. If you already run a tight schedule on a basic timer, the upgrade buys comfort and data rather than savings. If your heating currently runs on guesswork, it can pay for itself.
Warm house, smaller bills
Do
- Pick the lowest comfortable target and leave it alone
- Heat to a schedule, with an overnight setback
- Drop the flow temperature on a condensing combi
- Keep the wall stat clear of radiators, sun and draughts
Don’t
- Do not use 28°C as a fast-forward button
- Do not run every TRV at 5 and call it zoning
- Do not box TRVs in with curtains or sofas: they read air
- Do not switch everything off in a freeze: 12°C protects pipes
Controls can only save what the system can deliver. Radiators half-full of air respond sluggishly whatever the dial says, so bleed them each autumn, and take faults to the complete boiler guide. For the whole-house view of savings ranked by payback, the energy bills guide runs the numbers.
Heating ignoring its instructions?
If rooms will not hold the temperature you set, Self-Diagnose separates control faults from boiler and radiator problems in a couple of minutes, and says who fixes what.
Quick answers
Is it cheaper to leave the heating on low all day?
For most UK homes, no. A house loses heat in proportion to the gap between inside and outside, so holding warmth through empty hours pays for loss nobody feels. Timed heating with an overnight setback uses less in typical housing. The exceptions are unusually well-insulated homes and heat pumps, which are designed for long, steady running.
What temperature should I set when away in winter?
Around 12°C. That keeps the fabric of the house and the pipework safely above freezing without paying for comfort nobody is using. Most programmable thermostats have a holiday or frost mode for exactly this, and TRVs have the snowflake setting for individual rooms. Turning everything fully off in a freeze risks burst pipes.
Do TRVs actually save money?
Yes, modestly and reliably, because they stop you heating unused rooms to living-room temperatures. The effect is biggest in larger homes with spare rooms and different schedules upstairs and down. They are cheap to fit, they count toward an EPC assessment, and unlike most efficiency measures you can see them working.
What is the best flow temperature for a combi boiler?
For radiator systems, 60 to 65°C is the sensible starting point: low enough to keep the boiler condensing, high enough for most homes to hold temperature. Well-insulated houses can often go lower. Hot water has its own separate control on a combi, and cylinder systems must keep stored water at 60°C or above.
This guide is general information for UK homes, not advice about your specific property. Anything involving gas must be done by a Gas Safe registered engineer, and notifiable electrical work by a qualified electrician. If you smell gas, call the National Gas Emergency line on 0800 111 999. If you’re ever unsure, stop and get a professional in — that’s exactly what Tickover is for.
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