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Energy & efficiency · Full guide

Cut your energy bills without living in a jumper

Most energy advice is a pile of tips with no order. This is the order. Measure first, stop the waste that is free to stop, insulate before you generate, and only then think about heat pumps and solar. Work through it this way and every pound you spend does more.

By the Tickover team · Published 9 January 2026 · 6 min read

Why the order matters

A typical UK home leaks money in layers. Some goes through habits, some through the boiler’s factory settings, a surprising amount through the loft, and the rest through the plain fact that gas and electricity cost what they cost. Attack the layers in the right order, because each fix changes the maths of the next one.

Insulate before you size a heat pump and the pump can be smaller and cheaper. Measure before you insulate and you will know what actually worked. Do it backwards, buying generation before stopping waste, and you spend thousands producing energy the house then throws away.

The order of operations

  1. Measure what you use

    A smart meter, free from your supplier, plus one normal week of watching it. You cannot cut what you cannot see.

  2. Stop the free waste

    Boiler flow temperature down, heating schedule sorted, draughts blocked. Total cost: close to nothing.

  3. Insulate, loft first

    Loft insulation to 270mm is the best payback in the house. Walls and floors wait their turn.

  4. Generate your own

    Once the house wastes less, solar covers more of what you actually use, so it earns its keep faster.

  5. Electrify the big loads

    A heat pump for heating, a wallbox if you drive electric. The biggest spend, which is why it comes last.

Step one: measure

Start with a smart meter. It is free from your supplier and should never cost you a penny, whatever a cold caller says. The in-home display turns kilowatt-hours into pounds while you watch, which is the thing that actually changes behaviour. Our smart meter guide covers what they do, what they do not, and how to revive one that has gone quiet.

Then give it one ordinary week. Note what the house burns on a day when nobody does anything unusual. That number is your baseline, and every fix below either moves it or gets crossed off the list.

Step two: stop the waste that costs nothing

The cheapest kilowatt-hour is the one you never buy. First, turn down your combi boiler’s flow temperature, the temperature of the water sent to the radiators. Most leave the factory set in the 70s; nearer 60°C the boiler condenses properly and burns less gas for the same warm house. It is a dial or a menu setting, it is reversible, and it is free.

Second, the schedule. Heat the hours you live, not the hours you sleep, and make each degree earn its place; our guide to thermostat settings that save money has the details, TRVs included. Third, draughts. A windy afternoon, the back of your hand, and a £20 roll of draught strip will find and fix the worst offenders in a weekend.

Pound for pound, roughly in this order. Every home differs; ranges are a guide only.
MeasureTypical costPayback
Boiler flow temperature downFreeImmediate
Draught-proofingUnder £100 DIYA winter or two
Loft top-up to 270mm£150–£600 as a guideOften 1–3 years
Cavity wall insulation£1,000–£3,000 as a guideA few years
4kW solar PV£5,000–£8,000Commonly 7–12 years
Air source heat pump£8,000–£14,000 before grantVaries; £7,500 grant helps

Let the house keep its own score

The Tickover app keeps your home’s maintenance calendar, documents and running costs in one place, so the jobs that save money actually happen instead of living on a list.

Get started with Tickover

Step three: insulate, loft first

Heat rises, and in an under-insulated house it keeps going. Topping the loft up to 270mm is the rare home improvement that can pay for itself within a couple of winters, and a careful DIYer can do it in an afternoon. Start with insulation, in the right order: loft, then draughty floors, then walls, each with its own honest price tag.

One caveat that rarely gets airtime: insulation without ventilation grows mould. Keep trickle vents open and extractor fans working as you seal the house up. Warmer and damper is not the goal.

Step four: generate

With waste down, generation starts to make sense. A 4kW array costs £5,000–£8,000 installed at the time of writing, and the honest maths on solar puts payback at years, not miracles. East-west roofs work fine, whatever the doorstep salesman sighs about. The Smart Export Guarantee pays you for exported units, though using your own generation is where the real value sits.

Step five: electrify the big loads

Heating is the heaviest load in a UK home, which is why the heat pump readiness question comes after insulation, not before. A well-designed pump in a prepared house is quiet, cheap to run and slightly boring. The same pump in a leaky house is an expensive way to feel lukewarm. And yes, they work in a British winter; the steam clouds are part of the plan.

At the time of writing, the Boiler Upgrade Scheme offers £7,500 towards an air source heat pump and energy-saving materials carry 0% VAT. If you drive, a home EV charger at £800–£1,200 installed, paired with an off-peak tariff, makes miles cheaper than any forecourt has managed in living memory.

1°C

lower can trim up to 10% off heating

270mm

the loft insulation depth to aim for

£7,500

heat pump grant at the time of writing

When to do what

Energy work has seasons. Summer is for quotes and installs while trades are quieter; autumn is for the free settings and the loft; winter is for watching the meter prove it all worked.

The energy year at a glance

  • Solar and heat pump surveys
  • Install season; book boiler service
  • Turn the flow temperature down
  • Loft top-up and draught-proofing
  • Watch the meter, tune the schedule

Start this month

The first pass, in order

  • Book a smart meter install if you do not have one (free)
  • Find the flow temperature setting on your boiler
  • Set a heating schedule that matches your actual week
  • Measure your loft insulation depth with a tape
  • Walk the house hunting draughts on a windy day
  • Check your current EPC on the government register (free)
  • List the big-ticket jobs with rough dates and budgets

The paperwork bonus

Every measure above nudges your EPC, which matters when you sell, let or remortgage. The scoring has quirks, it models running costs rather than comfort or carbon, so read up on improving your EPC rating before spending with points in mind. Some cheap wins score generously; some expensive ones barely register.

Not sure what your home needs first?

Tickover Advice gives you a free, property-aware answer on where your money works hardest. From £49, a chartered professional verifies and signs it, useful before you commit thousands to a retrofit.

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Quick answers

What is the single best way to cut my energy bill?

If your loft is under-insulated, topping it up to 270mm is usually the best pound-for-pound move in the house. If the loft is already done, turning down your boiler flow temperature is free and takes ten minutes. Everything else, from solar to heat pumps, builds on those two foundations.

What help is available for energy upgrades right now?

At the time of writing, the Boiler Upgrade Scheme offers £7,500 towards an air source heat pump, energy-saving materials such as insulation and solar carry 0% VAT, and smart meters are free from your supplier. Schemes and rules change, so check the current position before committing to anything.

Should I insulate before getting a heat pump or solar?

Insulate first. A better-insulated home needs a smaller, cheaper heat pump and fewer radiator changes, and solar fitted later covers more of your real use. Insulation also pays back fastest, so it helps fund the rest. The one caution is ventilation: seal a house without it and you invite condensation and mould.

Is it cheaper to leave the heating on low all day?

For most homes, no. A house loses heat faster the warmer it is, so keeping it warm around the clock burns more gas than heating the hours you are actually in it. Timers and a sensible schedule win in the majority of UK homes, with very well-insulated houses the occasional exception.

Do smart meters actually save money?

Not by themselves; the meter measures, it does not insulate. The savings come from what the display makes visible and from cheaper time-of-use tariffs that need half-hourly readings to work. Since the meter is free from your supplier, it is the rare upgrade with no downside worth arguing about.

This guide is general information for UK homes, not advice about your specific property. Anything involving gas must be done by a Gas Safe registered engineer, and notifiable electrical work by a qualified electrician. If you smell gas, call the National Gas Emergency line on 0800 111 999. If you’re ever unsure, stop and get a professional in — that’s exactly what Tickover is for.